Other surfers Mark Liddle and buttons ect, were all riding these designs.
These shapes were two boards into one, front part of board had more curve to the plan shape as in a short board. The back was more straightened behind the sting as in a fast down the line board. The boards turned with ease, more like a board much shorter than they actually were due to the sting a third of the way up from the tail which creates a pivot or break away point for rail water flow.
a couple of mates of mine took a trip to Braunton and came back with these boards they were Creamed Honey, shaped by Kevin Cross, and sometime travelling surfer shaper Dick Harvey.

These boards looked and went great as in a true 70s design. Float and volume was under the chest area for ease of paddling and wave catching.